![rm125 mishimoto radiator hoses rm125 mishimoto radiator hoses](https://cdn.mishimoto.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/M/M/MMRAD-XJ-89FB_1.png)
For a severely-corroded neck, Indian Head gasket shellac will do the job but you must cut the hose off, with some difficulty, at replacement time. High-strength and durable multi-layer silicone looks great and withstands more heat and. Especially on corroded water pump castings, there is a need for some sealant. Compliment your Mishimoto radiator - or any other radiator - with a Mishimoto silicone radiator hose kit.
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The gear clamps do a much better job of establishing the seal on a new hose, but even they usually need a retightening after a few heat/cool cycles. The perfect replacement to the stock radiator hoses.
#Rm125 mishimoto radiator hoses upgrade
Available in black, blue or red, Mishimoto silicone hoses retain OEM fitment while providing increased pressure tolerance for the ultimate upgrade in performance and style. Mishimoto Jeep XJ 4.0L radiator hose kits are made with a dual layer combining high grade silicone and heat-resistant embedded fibers to provide efficient heat reduction and increased pressure tolerance, all with designed and engineered for a direct OEM fit. Mishimoto Jeep Wrangler radiator hoses are made from a combination of high-grade silicone and heat-resistant embedded fibers for a high-quality replacement kit for your OEM rubber hoses. The reason for pre-installation of the 2-wire clamps is that I find it nearly impossible to line up the screw with the nut after the 2-wire clamp has been bent while open. More tolerant, more efficient, and 100 percent silicone-Mishimoto radiator hose kits offer a boost of performance and looks under your hood Combining high-grade silicone and heat-resistant embedded fibers, Mishimoto hoses provide exceptional heat reduction, increased pressure tolerance, and a whole lot of satisfaction. Performance Jeeps deserve Jeep performance parts. After 10-20 heating and cooling cycles, when the hose has heat-bonded (to some degree) to the necks, open (split) the gear clamps and remove them, one at a time, and slide the 2-wire clamps into the positions previously occupied by the gear clamps. My standard procedure when replacing hoses is to use modern gear clamps initially, with the ultimate (correct) 2-wire clamps at the center of each hose, tightened just enough to keep them from rolling around.